tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-50296263698588511482024-03-14T06:49:25.469+01:00la baroudeuse en baladeLa Baroudeusehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16594044478340097708noreply@blogger.comBlogger125125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5029626369858851148.post-40754254536830125132017-04-21T21:19:00.002+02:002017-04-21T21:19:49.690+02:00Moving!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Hey folks,<br />
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I have moved this little space to a different domain, from now on you can find me on:<br />
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labaroudeuseenbalade.com<br />
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Thanks for following along!<br />
<br />
xx<br />
<br />
Elena</div>
La Baroudeusehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16594044478340097708noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5029626369858851148.post-16489195090896944612017-01-26T22:52:00.002+01:002017-01-26T22:52:58.945+01:00Winterwonderland in the Black Forest<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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At the beginning of January, the weather gods finally heard my prayers - and it snowed. And it got really cold which preserved the pristine white coat for more than a few hours. Effectively long enough for us to wait for the long weekend of epiphany and make our way to the Black Forest for a sunny and ice cold snow hike.<br />
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We followed the trek recommended by Corinna on her website (http://www.outdoormaedchen.de/2015/02/winterwanderweg-sankenbachsee-schwarzwald.html).<br />
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We were spoiled with the most perfect winter conditions. Sunshine, a good 30-50 cm of snow and icy temperatures around -10°C.<br />
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Although it was a public holiday we only came across a couple of other hikers, we had the path mostly to ourselves, the thick layers of snow seemed to absorb all the noise while we walked along the path, enjoying the silence.<br />
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I love days like these when just a little trip, a little outside the box of your everyday life, makes you feel like you were in a faraway place, miles away from your daily routine, where you just live in the moment and marvel at the beauty of nature surrounding you. Just a perfect day!<br />
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La Baroudeusehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16594044478340097708noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5029626369858851148.post-42014078907894721212017-01-01T18:51:00.000+01:002017-01-01T18:51:03.383+01:00Winter wonderland on New Year's<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Hello 2017 - after a few very busy weeks at the end of 2016, I was looking forward to a calm transition into 2017. We spent a cozy evening around the table eating raclette with a lot of gruyere cheese and drinking some good wines with it. The best of evenings in my book! <br />
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This morning, I could finally see the sun breaking through the clouds, illuminating the frosted trees on the hills surrounding Heidelberg. Everything looked like it was sugar-coated. Not wasting any time, I grabbed the camera and made my way up to "Kohlhof" for a sunny winter walk.<br />
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When I eventually pulled out my DSLR to capture the sparkling sunlight on the icy branches, I realized that the SD card was missing...so unfortunately, only iphone pictures in this post. I still loved the atmosphere so I'd thought I'd share them anyway.<br />
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Happy 2017 everyone. May you be blessed with health and luck and have a successful new year!<br />
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La Baroudeusehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16594044478340097708noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5029626369858851148.post-31619283282897050202016-10-02T13:42:00.000+02:002016-10-02T13:42:08.489+02:00A weekend in Tyrol: "Reither Spitze" to "Nördlinger Hütte" to "Sollsteinhaus"<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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So, and before reality and regular working hours at the hospital take me over on Tuesday again, I thought I'd share a few pictures from our last weekend in the Alps this summer.<br />
Initially, we had planned to go a different route to a small self-subsistent mountain refuge, all romantic with cooking over the fire and stuff...but then we forgot the key at home (the classic, as super-organized as we are with our lists and all, we forgot the one essential thing)...so we had to reschedule in a whim and Martin decided to go to the Karwendel in Tyrol instead.<br />
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On a sunny and warm Sunday we hiked up from Seefeld in Tirol to the Seefelder Spitze. At first, the path leads you along the ski slopes which, especially to me, as an avid snowboarder, was very sad to see in the summer months. All the ski lift poles and snow canons somehow ruin the views in summer, let alone the destruction of the ground by all the slope preparations...I was a bit triste so witness all this...<br />
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However, we came by a few ponies grazing on the slopes, which immediately lifted my spirits!<br />
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Lunch break about half way up when we finally left the slopes and continued on little paths towards the Seefelder Spitze.<br />
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Views from the Seefelder Spitze. We hadn't anticipated that much company on the trail, but since you can cover a good part of the ascent by cable car and given the sunny weather on this late September Sunday, there were quite a few people up there....which is why we walked straight on to the path leading us to the Reither Spitze.<br />
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The views on the different Karwendel mountain ridges were simply impressive.<br />
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All those lime stone formations - simply impressive.<br />
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Chocolate break at Reither Spitze. </div>
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Reither Spitze, 2374 m.<br />
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Enjoying the last rays of sun around Nördlingen Hütte. On this Sunday night, it was just us and another couple at the refuge, one of the staff girls was playing the guitar and we spent the evening reading mountain magazines, scheming on new routes for next year.<br />
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Views down the Inn valley during dinner.<br />
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The next morning, we got up at 6 am and decided to climb up to the Reither Spitze again for sunrise. We were rewarded for our efforts with a splendid sunrise and a 360° panorama of all shades of pink and blue.<br />
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After breakfast, we started on the "Freiungen Höhenweg" towards the Sollsteinhaus. This trail was more exposed and involved a bit more of climbing. While the climbing itself wasn't difficult, there were quite a lot of parts on the trail that were very exposed so this added to the dimension of the climbing since the whole trail was running along the mountain ridge. In the beginning, I enjoyed the climbing and the more challenging hike, but after about two hours of constantly walking/climbing on that mountain ridge it started to get a little too much. I was fine in the end, but there was a part of it where I was just scared and a bit overcharged with the terrain and the trail. Naturally, I couldn't be bothered to take out the camera at some point on this trail so there are no pictures documenting the tricky parts unfortunately.<br />
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The views were incredible though with the fog slowing rising from the valley.<br />
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Dreamteam on tour.<br />
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The final stretch to the Sollsteinhaus. Where a "Kaspressknödel" awaited me (which is essentially what kept me going and not surrendering to a little panic attack...). From Sollsteinhaus, it was another 1h 45 min descent down to Hochzwirl where we took a train (every 30 minutes) back to Seefeld. Once back down, the Freiungen Höhenweg didn't look that bad and scary anymore and I was happy and proud I completed it (admittedly, there were not too many options anyway). If you plan on going, just keep in mind that the majority of the "Höhenweg" is quite exposed, so maybe take it a little slow in the beginning so that tiring legs don't interfere with the height and the challenging trail at some point. I guess I was a little too motivated in the beginning, going a little too fast so that my legs were already a little tired when the stress and then fear kicked in - which definitely did not help the situation. Lesson learned though - going to take it a bit easier next time!<br />
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La Baroudeusehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16594044478340097708noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5029626369858851148.post-52005328377598878492016-10-01T13:11:00.001+02:002016-10-01T13:11:37.670+02:00Colorful Colombia Part VII: Cartagena<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Cartagena - the final destination of our Colombian adventures. An old colonial post with the oldest port on South American soil. A colorful colonial town within the old city walls, a modern cosmopolitan city with skyscrapers outside the old city skirts. A tourist hub with a Caribbean feel and a hint of Cuban atmosphere inviting you to just wander the streets, escaping the steaming heat for an ice-cold lemonade or some real gelato. </div>
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Cartagena has it all - from luxury resort hotels to simple bed and breakfasts, top notch fusion cuisine restaurants to comida corriente, wealthy cruiseship tourists, middle class Colombian tourists and the usual backpackers - and they all blend in perfectly well here. One can easily dine one night in a boho-chic fusion cuisine restaurant on a little square in the beautiful old town for the equivalent of 20-25€ per person, the next day, on the same street, sit with the locals at a comida corriente place and have some "pollo con arroz" complete with a drink and a starter for about 4 €. It was the perfect location for the end of our trip since we could enjoy the best of both worlds for our last four days.<br />
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We stayed at Hotel Don Pedro De Heredia in the old town, a beautiful colonial building with a little pool in the patio and a roof top terrace (that, surprisingly, we always had to ourselves). A small room with aircon (absolutely necessary in the humid heat of Cartagena) was 60€ per night including a roof top buffet breakfast. The staff was super friendly and helpful and I can highly recommend this place. After all the trekking and hammocks, having breakfast at a table complete with table cloth and porcelain dishes felt like a real luxury to me!<br />
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On a little stroll through town - when my aforementioned obsession with colored murals reached a new maximum! :-)<br />
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The lemonade stalls - life-savers in the heat and humidity. Admittedly, these involve ice cubes and are sold on the streets so maybe not the best for a sensitive stomach. Felix and me firmly believe that after India we can eat and drink anything but you may reconsider if your stomach is not made of steel. They were the perfect refreshment though. Icy, fresh and not too sweet.<br />
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Colombian style.<br />
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This is how I picture the streets in Cuba. Since it will take some more time until I get there myself I am glad I got to witness some Caribbean vibes in Cartagena.<br />
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Around Getsemaní, the backpacker district, boasting a lot of stylish coffee places and restaurants, as well as bars and the famous Havana Club. We had dinner at Gastrolab Sur on one night, a little restaurant within an art collective that offered some really great ceviche and cocktails at very reasonable prices and a great artsy atmosphere.<br />
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I loved every bit about our time in Cartagena and Colombia as a whole - the warm-hearted welcoming people, the beautiful nature and beaches, the old colonial towns, the music and the colors. I only saw a small part of this immense country and I can only hope I will find the time to come back one day and explore more of this wonderful place. Hasta luego, Colombia!<br />
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La Baroudeusehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16594044478340097708noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5029626369858851148.post-41917617630303797832016-09-30T22:32:00.001+02:002016-09-30T22:32:14.562+02:00Colorful Colombia Part VI: Tayrona National Park aka PARADISE!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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So after the 4-day trek in the jungle and a night of mojitos and roof-top partying in Santa Marta, we decided to set up camp in Tayrona National Park. We heard that taking the bus to the entrance was a rather long affair since this also involved hiking through the park with our bags to finally reach the beaches, so we decided to take the boat from Taganga that drops you off directly at Cabo San Juan. It is more expensive but the speed-boaty ride was totally worth it. However, if you are not a fan of riding speed-boat like on a not really speed-appropriate boat, the bus might be a better choice. The park itself, as a national park, is a whooping 42500 COP entrance fee (while only 8500 COP for students....). However, everything is perfectly clean and well-organized so I won't complain.<br />
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Upon arrival at Cabo San Juan we jumped into the turquoise sea, bought some beers and sandwiches and then got in line (!) for the hammocks at the beach. While there are a lot of hammocks at the campsite there are only 20 hammocks at the mirador on top of the rocks pictured below. I was a bit sceptic about sleeping in a hammock but the prospect of sleeping in one directly at the sea with the breeze rocking you to sleep was just too good an opportunity to miss. And it didn't disappoint!<br />
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The views from the mirador. Cabo San Juan has two beaches that are, admittedly, quite crowded in the afternoons since the boats also drop off quite a few day tourists. In the mornings and late afternoons though, you can call them your own. There were only a few vendors selling beers and snacks but they weren't any pushy so it still felt all very relaxed.<br />
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The second hammock from the left was mine for the night - surprisingly comfy and watching the sun rise from a hammock listening to the waves crashing into the rocks - simply perfect!<br />
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One could easily escape "the crowds" and follow a little trail at the end of the Cabo San Juan beaches and have a whole beach to oneself. We spent a good bit of time just sitting there staring at the sea, all of us lost in some thought or other.<br />
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Shades of blue.<br />
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So, when the sun finally settled we decided to just get a few beers and crackers and sit on the deck on the mirador for an improvised "dinner" with our trekking friends Riet and Sarah. With the stars above us, we just sat there in the dark, recounting traveling tales and discussing politics. It was perfect.<br />
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Seriously, these are the moments I pack up my bags for and go traveling. New friends, shared adventures, inspiration and motivation - this is what traveling is about for me.<br />
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The next morning, after my first night in a hammock with the sea breeze in my face and the rolling of the sea in my ears, my brother organized the BEST breakfast with fresh maraca and papaya juice and warm chocolate bread. I guess I don't have to say more....<br />
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And now, well, just a few more pictures of this perfect place, I just couldn't help it ;-)<br />
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La Baroudeusehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16594044478340097708noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5029626369858851148.post-35763498757741724572016-09-28T17:29:00.000+02:002016-09-28T17:29:04.978+02:00Colorful Colombia Part V: La Ciudad Perdida<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Be prepared for a rather picture-heavy post! Our trek to La Ciudad Perdida (The Lost City) in the Colombian Sierra Nevada was clearly a highlight of the trip - and I couldn't narrow down the pictures.<br />
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The archaeological site of La Ciudad Perdida was only discovered in 1975 - a few farmers accidentally stumbled upon the ruins of the old Tayrona city while searching for hidden Tayrona gold in the jungle of the Sierra Nevada. The Tayrona, an indigenous tribe living in the mountainous region of the Sierra Nevada long before the Spaniards arrived, still live in small villages of few round huts scattered around the Sierra Nevada mountains. Until now, they do not speak any Spanish and live according to their traditions, with a "Mamu" being the political and spiritual leader of each tribe. Their cultural heritage is protected by Colombian law nowadays and in order to preserve their traditions and culture, special regulations for tourism in the Sierra Nevada mountains have come into place. Tourists can only access the national park with accredited agencies and stay in the designated camps. The indigenous people benefit from the tourism industry on a financial level through payments from the government, all the agencies also have to employ a certain number of local people (both indigenous and locals from the area), guaranteeing an important source of income in the area. This government initiative has created a substantial source of income and employment that substitutes the coca plantations that were abundant in the area beforehand. Since this is a quite recent development, one can still see patches of burned ground where the coca plantations used to be. Locals and indigenous people alike have commented positively on this development and it made the whole area a lot safer as well.<br />
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In total, the trek to La Ciudad Perdida is a 4-day trek and costs about 250 USD per person including food, accommodation and transport to and from the park. Given the fact, that you are on a guided trek and all the sustainable work that is done in the area, I thought this was a reasonable price.<br />
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Anyway, on our first day we started trekking from El Mamey and were greeted by a scorching tropical heat. Almost 100% humidity and a good 35°C are not the most welcoming hiking conditions, the first ascent of 600 m to the first camp was, in hindsight, the hardest part of the trek. Within minutes, you were covered in sweat, a mixture of repellent and sunscreen running down your skin, while you were still trying to fight off the mosquitos. However, the views were even more breathtaking than the hike itself.<br />
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Lush green hills with the clouds rolling in in the late afternoon. In the beginning we were still trekking through farmland with the occasional farm on the way, the further we advanced on the path, the wilder the vegetation got.<br />
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A Kogi boy on his mule. The Kogi are a sub-tribe of the Tayrona that live in the area.<br />
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Suspension bridge to our first camp.<br />
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The camp. Simple but clean. The mosquito nets allowed for a relatively bug-free night. And, it was surprisingly "cold" in the jungle at night.<br />
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A quick refreshment after the first day of trekking.<br />
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The next morning. The morning fog is slowly rising above the hills.<br />
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And then we dived deep into the jungle...<br />
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Fruit break. Always welcome. Every two to three hours we would stop for some fresh fruits, mostly water melon or oranges to keep up the sugar levels and our motivation.<br />
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Further along the trek....<br />
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Kogi children around the Kogi village that is close to the trail. One family lives in one round hut but usually has two ore three huts in different villages since they live self-subsistently from the crops they crow around the villages. So one family moves from one village to the other depending on their food supply. The Kogi live in big families with 10 children. All children wear the same with cloth shirts, boys carry little bags around their shoulders, girls wear colorful necklaces. The Kogi living close to the trail are used to the tourists, the children requesting some "dulce" (sweets) when you ask to take their picture. I always have very mixed feelings about this and only took very few pictures of the natives on this trek.<br />
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Further down the road...with the heat and humidity, the mosquitos and the countless river crossings, the trek created a real expedition feeling. I had to think of the books I read about the expeditions in the Congo basin, when the first Europeans had to fight their way through the thickest of jungle with machetes, succumbing to tropical diseases, isolation and the heat. While the trek itself was well prepared and relatively easy to do, the heat definitely took its toll and made this hike the most challenging one I have ever done. In the afternoons it usually started to pour down on us, turning the trail into a muddy river and the river crossings got a lot more difficult when a once calm and clear stream turned into a rapid muddy river within hours. The expedition feeling was real.<br />
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Wet boots after the river crossing - and they stayed very wet for the rest of the trek. Nothing ever dries in the jungle. If anyone plans on going, carry enough dry clothes in water-proof bags :-)<br />
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On the third day eventually, we got up early and climbed the 1000 steps up to the Lost City. The farmers who stumbled upon those ruins on their search for Tayrona gold could't contain their excitement, one night, after a few beers, they boasted about their discovery which lured a lot more gold miners into the jungle. A lot of the ruins were destroyed before the site was claimed by the government and archeologists started to work on the site and rebuilt the damage done by erosion and gold mining.<br />
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While the site is not comparable to the ruins at Macchu Pichu where one can still admire the houses and temples of the Incas, the fact that one can only reach La Ciudad Perdida by foot after a three-day hike through the jungle, made this a clear highlight of the trip. I just loved the expedition feeling and the challenge that the jungle put on me.<br />
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Since we had an early start and were a great group walking at a rather fast pace, we arrived early on the top and enjoyed unspoiled views on the main square. A great feeling of achievement up there!<br />
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Sheets of rain coming down in the afternoons...<br />
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All in all, I can only recommend this trek to anybody who seeks a little challenge and is prepared to camp in the jungle for a few days. While we didn't have any issues with the food or the supplied chlorine water, quite a few people had stomach problems and/or diarrhea which can turn the experience into a nightmare. The sanitary facilities in the camps are quite simple and although they were clean upon our arrival, a few upset stomachs turned them into a mess quite quickly. Furthermore, while I didn't expect to have any electricity on the whole trek, a lot of people got upset that they couldn't charge their phones in the middle of the jungle. I don't know what people expect from the jungle nowadays but this is still a trek, the camps are simple and just a place to sleep after a long day of hiking, not a luxury resort.<br />
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So from my side, a clear "thumbs up" on this trek and thanks to the whole team for making this such a fun and memorable experience. We had a blast!<br />
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La Baroudeusehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16594044478340097708noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5029626369858851148.post-81232270652605881332016-09-21T22:02:00.002+02:002016-09-22T09:07:14.640+02:00Colorful Colombia Part IV: On the road to the Caribbean<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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In-between the Colombian highlands and the Caribbean coast there was quite a distance to cover - a lot of bus fun for two days straight but we tried to make the most of it, breaking the journey in half in San Gil, Colombia's adventure capital. While we didn't have the time to stay over to get an adrenaline rush with rafting, paragliding or abseiling, we participated in a round of "tejo", a typical Colombian game involving dynamite and booze. The next morning we embarked on a 15-hour bus ride up to Santa Marta on the Caribbean coast. It was long...very long, but given the air-con and wifi on the bus, it could have been a lot worse. And our hostel had a pool and a roof-top bar so that was something to look forward to....and we were excited for our jungle trek to the Ciudad Perdida but more on that on the next post! Stay tuned!<br />
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A so call mystical urban forest in San Gil. Unfortunately, the park was closed so we could only snap a few pictures from outside but I would have loved to wander around under those trees.<br />
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On the Plaza Mayor in San Gil before the storm rolled in. We were just enjoying a cold beer after the first stretch of our long trip up north when the rain drops made us run in search of a nice place for dinner.<br />
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We found this little Colombian gem in a side street. A full Colombian meal - comida corriente - with soup, a main plate with meat, rice and vegetables and some cake for dessert and a lemonade for less than 4 € total. Buen aproveche!<br />
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The "tejo" situation - throwing stone disks on those mud covered platforms where the little pink envelopes are filled with dynamite. If you hit them, a loud bang announces you won 9 points for your team. Admittedly, we only achieved this from like a 2 m distance ;-)<br />
But the beers and the company made it a great night out!<br />
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A stroll through Santa Marta on the Caribbean coast - this little coastal town mostly serves as a base for treks to the Sierra Nevada or trips to the Tayrona National Park but the city center had a calm colonial attire with a Caribbean touch to it - a bit of how I imagine Cuba to be like.<br />
And there were quite a few nice restaurants and bars allowing for some delicious treats at still reasonable prices.<br />
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In case you haven't noticed yet, I have a thing for colored walls...my poor brother had to snap a picture of me posing in front of a wall every few meters. Since they were even prettier in Cartagena I'll save those for another post, but I couldn't help but include at least one ;-) Thanks to Felix for his patience!<br />
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And again, great graffitis!<br />
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The best juice bar! Also great for a some good non-Colombian dinner with pitas, fajitas and salads! Just in case you had enough "pollo con arroz", chicken with rice, for a while....<br />
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Ah and in case anybody plans on visiting Colombia... the Masaya Hostel in Santa Marta is a great place to stay with its rooftop pool and bar. Private rooms are quite expensive for a hostel but the pool and atmosphere are definitely a pro argument. On sundays, there is even a rooftop pool party .... :-)<br />
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La Baroudeusehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16594044478340097708noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5029626369858851148.post-50366695612805316292016-09-17T18:08:00.001+02:002016-09-17T18:08:41.297+02:00Colorful Colombia Part III: Santuario de Iguaque<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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After the first few days of adapting to the altitude and holiday mode with a lot of good food and beers we felt that a little exercise was in order. Luckily, the area around Villa de Leyva has a few nice one-day treks on offer. We settled on a trek through the Santuario de Iguaque, leading us to the sacred lagoon where the Muisca goddesses had turned into snakes. With an altitude profile well over 3000 m it turned out to be quite a strenuous hike. We started the trek at the national park entrance at 2400 m and covered 14 km and a 1250 m ascent within 7 hours to catch the bus at the park entrance again. In contrast to the Alps where the trees cede to grow at around 1800 m, we started our trek through thick cloud forest that, above 3200 m, finally turned into the paramó, a typical endemic vegetation of bushes and grasslands that is specific for this area.<br />
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For the first time on all my hiking trips, arriving at the lagoon at 3650 m of altitude, I felt a little dizzy. Admittedly, we had climbed up there quite fast and, when everything is lush green and jungle-like, one easily looses perception of the high altitude. Although we were spending a good part of the day above 3000 m, there were no snow-capped peaks, or mountain peaks altogether for that matter, in sight. Without any snow or mountain range on the horizon, the hike mostly just felt like a walk through the woods. The dizziness quickly faded when we were starting our descent so I did't have to worry but it made me all the more aware of the risks that are associated with high altitude adventures, even if you are "just walking through the forest" but on 3600 m of altitude.<br />
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On the way back down we stopped at the refuge in the national park for lunch (which we had pre-ordered in the morning) and they served us fresh trout and some fruit juice for a total of 6 €. We were really surprised since we were just expecting a simple meal.<br />
This was just something I loved about Colombia, there was always a surprise in store!<br />
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La Baroudeusehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16594044478340097708noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5029626369858851148.post-15039786453705220442016-09-15T08:23:00.000+02:002016-09-15T08:24:27.068+02:00Colorful Colombia Part II: Colonial Bliss in Boyaca<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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On a sunny Saturday afternoon we arrived in Villa de Leyva, a beautifully preserved colonial village in the Colombian Andes, about a 3-hour drive from busy Bogota. With its proximity to Bogota it is also a popular weekend retreat for Colombians escaping the city so the little alleyways were busy with people, a marriage was held in the old church and children were flying their kites on the Plaza Mayor. It was such a peaceful and beautiful atmosphere up there on the main square in the sun, young and old gathered, people sitting on the stoops and benches enjoying a beer or some empanadas and watching the little ones flying their colorful kites that were dancing in the clear blue sky. We were relishing in the moment, the warming sun on our faces (it was a few degrees warmer than in Bogota), a cold beer in our hands and a few spicy empanadas to sample. Traveling at its best!<br />
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The views from our first hostel which was, alas, apart from the views, pretty disappointing. We changed to Hospedaje El Fuente for the next two nights which was such a lovely place run by an equally lovely old couple.<br />
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On our way to town, we passed the cemetery...<br />
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...and this cute fella...<br />
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The next morning we hired a driver together with two other Germans to embark on a trip through the district of Boyaca. Although there are quite a few buses circling between the colonial villages it would have been impossible to visit more than one or two in a day so we opted for the flexibility of a driver that also allowed us to adapt the schedule to our gusto. For example, to stop on the middle of the road when the sun was breaking through the clouds at six in the morning...<br />
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For breakfast, with our few bites of Spanish, we ordered some local treats and some nice strong coffee.<br />
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Driving through endless green hills and forests...it was a great pastime, just watching the landscape, spotting a few children playing in the distance or a few horses grazing.<br />
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Sunday morning leisure...<br />
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La Baroudeusehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16594044478340097708noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5029626369858851148.post-27789628357726483182016-09-14T15:02:00.001+02:002016-09-14T15:02:33.419+02:00Colorful Colombia Part I: Exploring Bogota<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Bogota - whoever I told about my upcoming Colombian adventure would start on some words about Bogota, Medellin and the drug conflict. While Colombia is still producing a considerable amount of cocaine, there is a lot more to this country than drugs and guerrilla groups. I'll share more on the recent progress concerning the drug conflict in a different post.<br />
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A lot has changed in Bogota in the recent years making its city center a vibrant neighborhood with colorful streets, great street food and fusion cuisine restaurants and coffee bars that allowed for an easy transition into holiday mode after an exhausting 14 hour flight. La Candelaria, the historic city center is pretty safe to walk around if one sticks to the rules and uses some common sense ( e.g. no unnecessary swinging around of large DSLR cameras at night, no walking around at night on your own, only take accredited cabs...).<br />
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We stayed in a beautiful hotel called Anandamayi Hostal in a calm street in La Candelaria. The old colonial building with white washed walls and turquoise doors has four different patios all boasting flowers, plants in every shade of green and some hammocks to relax in. The place is run by women only, especially single mothers are employed with flexible shifts to allow for a sustainable income.<br />
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Downtown, we visited the Museo del Oro that has an impressive exhibition on the gold crafting art of Colombia and South America in general. You can easily spend a few hours in there, mesmerized by the delicate golden jewelry on display.<br />
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Obviously, we had so sample some Colombian coffee as soon as possible and were not disappointed by this cups we got on a coffee stall on the street. Everyone was so friendly and talkative (although only Spanish is spoken here) and people seemed genuinely interested in us and our appreciation of the country. I felt immediately at ease with the people and the country and this feeling did not cease throughout the whole trip.<br />
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In the afternoon, we embarked on a bike tour with Cerro Bike tours to discover some other Bogota neighborhoods where you would usually not walk to as a tourist. The graffiti scene is big in Bogota with a few graffiti collectives being paid my the government to paint some murals. There are different themes to different collectives, anti-war or crime messages, ecological or social headlines.<br />
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The bike tour was a great way to cover bigger distances in a day and still learn something about the city and its history.<br />
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We stopped at a coffee roastery for a cup of freshly-brewed Colombian coffee. At first, I thought this might be a typical tourist trap thing. However, unlike in India, where we often felt obliged to purchase something at these kind of stops, this seemed a lot more relaxed. Our bike guide also ordered food and a coffee and paid for it just like us. The roastery and the accompanying café have existed and had their customers before the tourists arrived so it just felt normal to step by, have a look and enjoy a cup of coffee while everyone was pursuing his or her business. I gladly realized that in Colombia, not everything is revolving around the tourists. On my last travels through India and Nepal I got so accustomed to the fact that tourism was the only source of income that it took me a few moments to realize the differences in Colombia. It has been eight years since my last trip to South America. In-between I have mostly traveled around Asia and Africa where tourism often plays a bigger role in the country's economy. Additionally, as a fair European you stick out a lot more. With its diverse cultural and ethnic heritage Colombia is a multi-racial country, with Caribbean, Afro-American and Hispanic influences. Although poverty is still a major economic problem, there is a sound Colombian middle class and the minimum wage is on the rise.<br />
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Being a tourist was a lot easier here since you could blend in more easily and experience more of Colombia's culture on your own, chatting with the locals on the bus, in a bar or at the beach.<br />
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Later on, we stopped at the fruit market where we sampled a few, even new-to-me, fruits. Delicious!<br />
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All in all, it was a great start into our Colombian adventure. The day was perfectly rounded up with a dinner at Capital Cocina. A tiny restaurant with little wooden tables and minimalistic interior that could sit in New York or Berlin all the same, where we ordered octopus salad and some nice meats at the price of a New York cocktail. Bon appetit!<br />
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La Baroudeusehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16594044478340097708noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5029626369858851148.post-49050389535131523872016-08-11T19:29:00.000+02:002016-08-11T19:29:58.618+02:00Weekend in the Alps Part III: "Lichtspiele"<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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It's almost the weekend again - so I hope you guys have planned a few fun outdoor adventures. Myself, unfortunately, I have to work at the hospital - so I am dreaming myself back to the mountains, to the incredible light and shadows at dawn and sunset. Impossible to beat...enjoy!<br />
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La Baroudeusehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16594044478340097708noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5029626369858851148.post-24904700743841850252016-08-03T18:03:00.001+02:002016-08-03T18:03:31.941+02:00Weekend in the Alps Part II: Glacier de La Pleine Morte <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b>Glacier de La Pleine Morte</b> - my first glacier and my first alpine tour combined with three summits on the ridge to Wildstrubel summit. It was an ambitious tour since a bad weather forecast with a 65% probability of thunderstorms for Sunday changed our original, a bit more relaxed, route. Hence, we decided to take the "Wildstrubelhütte" as a base camp and cross the glacier, mount on the ridge and hike over to Wildstrubel summit and then climb down to the "Wildstrubelhütte" again for the night. First, this allowed for a short and fast descend on Sunday with the aforementioned announced thunderstorms, and second, this also allowed for a lighter backpack for the tour. After a lot of discussions of all the pros and cons, we eventually settled on this plan. 11 km, with about 600 mH to climb up to Wildstrubel summit. </div>
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So, the alarm clock rang at 5 a.m. and after a quick breakfast we were greeted with pink skies. I tried to hurry up to take a few pictures of the beautiful light without slowing the others down. Since I had decided to carry my DSLR along, I was determined to make good use out of it and shoot as much of the Alps' beauty as possible. Even if that meant I had to hike faster to take my pictures without making anybody wait or lose precious time in the mountains.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEIgz0mgrvKZcXGJsXSmmfMN1XCqkNzXP-xGz0qhcUI3j2Eyn-MU_v6Qk2opNzwn29eQybLBJJuv64UEaziaHRh0K9AShrHG_kZczH86F1GCgxQbyQ9lIM26T07j3_-jy8zloz34Ibk95W/s1600/IMG_1195.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEIgz0mgrvKZcXGJsXSmmfMN1XCqkNzXP-xGz0qhcUI3j2Eyn-MU_v6Qk2opNzwn29eQybLBJJuv64UEaziaHRh0K9AShrHG_kZczH86F1GCgxQbyQ9lIM26T07j3_-jy8zloz34Ibk95W/s320/IMG_1195.jpg" width="320" /></a>The trek started towards the "Wisshore" where we could already spot the glacier plain in the distance and changed into helmet, crampons and harness. Once we arrived down on the glacier, which was covered in slushy snow with a few little glacier lakes (one in the shape of a heart :-)), we used the rope and got in line to avoid anybody falling into one of the glacier cracks. This glacier reportedly has very few cracks, but was also covered in snow, so the cracks wouldn't have been easily visible.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAVegpBaTnwhlzbaj24RJVXya4qvkq1nE7tggRKigYaxBAcPFvDKiJqDRLBXao-lX9dGDQl6pJKDC1jk1JW42keUL-eFWlSE74doEf0is_bNR9tzLzrTeIMGsiKJ5DT9sSKi_Anxp_g79A/s1600/IMG_1212.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAVegpBaTnwhlzbaj24RJVXya4qvkq1nE7tggRKigYaxBAcPFvDKiJqDRLBXao-lX9dGDQl6pJKDC1jk1JW42keUL-eFWlSE74doEf0is_bNR9tzLzrTeIMGsiKJ5DT9sSKi_Anxp_g79A/s320/IMG_1212.jpg" width="320" /></a>The glacier crossing was tough - not that much physically, but mentally. We walked for hours under the blazing sun, in slushy snow, with nothing but whiteness around. We advanced slowly, so the views did not change too quickly (they didn't seem to change at all) and it started feeling a little dull to step into the footsteps of the others. However, on the other hand, you never knew if there were any cracks underneath so I tried to stay alert and watch my steps carefully.<br />
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Eventually, we reached the ridge that would take us up to Wildstrubel summit. So, after a short break with a few of the aforementioned granola bars (peanut butter is a real energy booster), we made our way up the ridge. In my determination to document this alpine adventure I tried to get ahead of the others, snapping as many shots of the splendid views as possible. Since we were already running late on our schedule, there was not that much time for taking a rest and admiring the views, so I thought it was even more important to document it on film so we could later conjure up the memories.<br />
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The views were simply breathtaking.<br />
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On the way up to the ridge...<br />
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Eventually, as we left the slushy snow behind, we could take off the crampons.<br />
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And again, beautiful views on both sides of the ridge. Up there on the ridge, the views changed every few meters and I would have loved to take more pictures, but I couldn't take out the camera as regularly as before since I needed my hands for a bit of climbing along the ridge.<br />
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Final ascend to Wildstrubel summit with the clouds rolling in...by then, we were pretty late on our schedule, so we were all getting a little nervous and stressed out, trying to go a little faster, but also feeling the drain of many hours of hiking already...<br />
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Wildstrubel summit. we quickly signed in the book, the wind almost blowing us off the ridge, and started our descend down to the glacier and over to our night's base camp at "Wildstrubelhütte". By 5.30 p.m. we arrived at "Wildstrubelhütte", all safe and sound, but a little exhausted from an 11-hour trek. In the end, we found out that we had miscalculated the distance - we covered 17 km on that day, so no wonder, we couldn't keep up with the envisioned schedule.<br />
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It was a wonderful adventure, physically and mentally challenging, but so rewarding, and I cannot wait for the next tour. Thanks for all the planning to Martin, Johannes and Elmar and also to Doro for the great company. Let's do this again!<br />
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La Baroudeusehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16594044478340097708noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5029626369858851148.post-59538136472968035652016-08-01T23:19:00.000+02:002016-08-01T23:20:47.657+02:00Weekend in the Alps Part I: Iffigenalp to Wildstrubelhütte<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOwhlyitj_4sJOYD3xCBhO6nvQHJOFB4KY7m-uvF9sfQ2TJmZ_coTKuc0TYg2SqEilbQIA8Qct5CEJPm02zKbkzfA9UvQJzwfBpMl1k0XG-Ka4SyEryBj7GJYSfS0HdiTKSiezEGq7n4tS/s1600/IMG_1075.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOwhlyitj_4sJOYD3xCBhO6nvQHJOFB4KY7m-uvF9sfQ2TJmZ_coTKuc0TYg2SqEilbQIA8Qct5CEJPm02zKbkzfA9UvQJzwfBpMl1k0XG-Ka4SyEryBj7GJYSfS0HdiTKSiezEGq7n4tS/s400/IMG_1075.jpg" width="400" /></a>Eventually, after a lot of rainy weekends, the weather gods were with us - Martin and me embarked on our first alpine tour. Together with three friends we had planned to cross a glacier and mount the Wildstrubel summit - an initiation to alpine trekking.<br />
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Preparation is key in the mountains so I had started packing my backpack in anticipation already a few days prior to the departure. In an attempt to keep things as light as possible, I probably repacked the whole thing about five times, wondering about all the gear that was involved. A climbing harness with carabiner, a pickaxe, crampons, a helmet and a few funny looking things that I am not able to name correctly that were absolutely necessary to have at hand in case of an emergency ;-)<br />
I tried to remember all the essentials Martin explained about the gear and its use, slowly getting a little nervous but also very excited about the adventure ahead.<br />
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As I could't really help with the preparation in terms of logistics, the route and gear, I realized there was only one thing I could "skillfully" contribute to - food. So I searched my favorite food blogs for granola bar recipes and finally settled on the following one:<br />
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http://cookieandkate.com/2015/cranberry-orange-granola-bars/<br />
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So, on Friday morning, the alarm rang at 5 a.m. and about seven hours on the road we arrived at Iffigenalp close to Lenk in Switzerland. We started the ascent to our first night's refuge "Wildstrubelhütte" under the scorching sun - 1200 m ascent with a 10-12 kg backpack - it was a sweaty affair. But, the views were an excellent reward: lush green hills with grazing cows with their bells ringing, wild flowers along the way, snow-clad peaks in the far distance slowly coming closer, a mountain current, a waterfall....you name it, it was the perfect post card idyll.<br />
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Upon arrival at "Wildstrubelhütte" we dumped our backpacks in the dorm where the mattresses were covered in red-and white plaid sheets, another postcard cliché but looked oh-so-welcoming and comfortable. The "Wildstrubelhütte" was renovated in 2005 but has kept its alpine charm with wooden furniture and thoughtful design.<br />
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After a dinner of spaghetti bolognese we quickly retreated to the dorm to catch some sleep until another 5 a.m. wake up call would ring in the next day.<br />
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Below are a few more pictures from our way up to the "Wildstrubelhütte". I guess we can all agree on the "post card perfect-ness" of the hike :-)<br />
For me, it was the first time to cross snow fields and walk along glacier lakes in the summer in the Alps (the last snowfall only dated back a few weeks). I was stunned by the simple beauty of it all. The stark contrast of the blue skies, the lush green and the snow was mesmerizing. I hope you can catch a glimpse of it....<br />
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La Baroudeusehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16594044478340097708noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5029626369858851148.post-29149131722942693802016-07-24T21:34:00.001+02:002016-07-25T07:49:32.987+02:00Urban Jungle in Heidelberg<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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On days like these when everything seems to be too much the only thing that helps is a walk in the woods with a good friend. And it did. After two hours in the sweltering heat we got into a refreshing rain shower and everything seemed to be better afterwards. The shades of green surely had a healing effect. </div>
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One might complain a lot about Heidelberg, about its conservative style, its small size and its lack of a big city culture. I don't share these presumptions. I love Heidelberg for its small size and the fact that I can see all my friends at my favorite bars and restaurants within a 15 min bike ride. And there has been a lot of change here in recent years. New boutiques, bars and restaurants have opened and food markets and other big city exports have arrived in the region. </div>
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However, one thing nobody ever argued about is the fact that, within a few minutes, one can forget about the city blues and refill the batteries in the forest. Just up on the "Philosophenweg" and a few turns into the forest, leaving the tourists behind, and one dives into all different shades of green. </div>
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La Baroudeusehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16594044478340097708noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5029626369858851148.post-61054838020367938162016-06-11T13:30:00.002+02:002016-06-11T13:30:51.407+02:00Weekend Escape: The Islands around Stockholm<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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After just a short two hours on the boat, we found ourselves on the beautiful island Sandham in the archipelago around Stockholm. Although a few people left the boat in Sandham's port with us, most of the Stockholmers retreated to their red-colored weekend cabins and when we set off on a walk around the island we didn't meet anybody on the trek and had the forest and beaches to ourselves. On the forest ground, blueberries were growing, the sun was shining and the water was crystal blue along the shore. </div>
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In the warming light the colors were so strong, it felt like walking through a postcard. The summer cabins of the Stockholmers were painted in strong colors, some red or blue or turquoise colored and the lilacs were blooming and giving the air a summery and flowery scent. </div>
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It felt very Swedish and "Michel Lönneberga"-like, just like out of one of our beloved children books.</div>
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We had a typical "fika" with a cinnamon roll while waiting for the boat to take us back to Stockholm. With about 30 € for the return trip to Sandham, this place is definitely worth the effort of coming out there on a weekend trip to Stockholm. </div>
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La Baroudeusehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16594044478340097708noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5029626369858851148.post-7631755805693656282016-06-09T07:30:00.001+02:002016-06-09T07:30:28.496+02:00Weekend Escape: Stockholm<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglefdqS-Nx26XiqsS6HeksBvG_KKCZAq9EnudmqLD8JHKZPeGJIj7mcgS7nIZeOFyh_4pOmkSSyuvpQeSNPlYgyf6U5Ppa8TcZ4-wzqEulxYd2yu3q_fbPtR17C1lm-AI2kgGxOWoJkYLx/s1600/IMG_0691.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglefdqS-Nx26XiqsS6HeksBvG_KKCZAq9EnudmqLD8JHKZPeGJIj7mcgS7nIZeOFyh_4pOmkSSyuvpQeSNPlYgyf6U5Ppa8TcZ4-wzqEulxYd2yu3q_fbPtR17C1lm-AI2kgGxOWoJkYLx/s640/IMG_0691.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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Last weekend I eventually got to visit my brother in Stockholm where he is spending his Erasmus year. We had given our parents plane tickets for Christmas so after work on Friday I went to the airport with my parents to spend a long weekend with my brother. Although my parents used to and still travel a lot, it was kind of funny to see how taking plane is not as normal and daily routine anymore as it is to me.<br />
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Stockholm has immediately won my heart - upon arrival, the city was lit in a warm evening light that didn't fade until almost midnight. With the abundance of water and the pastel-colored buildings of the old town, the reflections were simply beautiful. The streets were crowded until the after-hours since it still felt like early evening time although it was close to midnight.<br />
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We stayed at Scandic Hotel in Södermalm, a very hip and stylish district which is great for people watching. A drink at the hotel terrace bar gives you quite the look of Stockholm hipsters - young, creative, lots of tattoos, very well dressed and also very beautiful people sipping a craft beer or a glass of champagne in the sun.<br />
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Crossing the water one arrives in Gamla Stan, the district where the old town and the royal palace is located. The water channels and the terra-cotta-colored buildings give it quite a mediterranean feeling, while the royal palace and the parliament in their architecture remind you of your northern location. I loved strolling through the narrow alleys of the old town, peeking into shop windows of Swedisch design or a small gallery. A few turns later you would find yourself down at the water or on a grand plaza in front of a majestic royal building.<br />
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We also went to visit the Stathuset, the town hall where the Nobel Prize Banquet is held. Thanks to our amazing guide it was a really fun and interesting tour. They even have the porcelain dishes for the banquet on display and the stairs down to the hall have been adapted in their size and hight for women wearing high heels and long gowns, this architect was a genius and had a very clever wife ;)<br />
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Another great place to go is the Fotografiska Stockholm Museum with top-notch photography exhibitions and a really great café with great views over the water and the Stockholm skyline.<br />
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We had great food at 17 Österlanggatan, a young and stylish restaurant with tuna burgers and tartar de boeuf on the menu. Unfortunately, the service was a bit slow and our waiter not the nicest, however, since the food was really good, I'd still recommend the place.<br />
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And since I could't narrow the pictures down, a few more from our walk through Gamla Stan....<br />
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La Baroudeusehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16594044478340097708noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5029626369858851148.post-62720859997774714212016-05-26T16:37:00.000+02:002016-05-26T16:37:15.429+02:00Microadventures: Paddling on the "Altmühl"<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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The sun is shining outside and I am confined to my apartment with a cold that struck me yesterday. So, on this public holiday, no hiking trip, no sports, no nothing. The stress of the last months is taking its toll, this week I ruined an important experiment by a stupid mistake and now I am feeling sick, all signs that I have to take it a bit more slowly in the next days....so I spent the afternoon on the couch, searching through a few outdoor blogs for some travel inspiration. When you can't be outside in the sun, take yourself on an imaginary adventure trip.</div>
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And with my upcoming trip to Colombia in mind, I put on some road tripping music and started surfing from one great travel blog to the next, taking mental notes for further destinations and adventures. Oh, this ever expanding list of places to go....</div>
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However, after having traveled half the world through blog posts and reminiscing in memories of past adventures, I also thought I might share a few pictures of a "micoadventure", as one would call it in the outdoor blogosphere today, at the Altmühl in Bavaria. Sometimes it doesn't have to be the Amazon river or the Himalayan mountains, a small stream, a canoe, good company and some sunshine is just the right combination for a perfect sunday afternoon adventure. </div>
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We had a wonderful canoe trip from Sollnhofen to Dollnstein which took us about 3,5 hours. We could leave the canoe in Dollstein and take the train back to Sollnhofen where we enjoyed a hearty meal at Aktiv-Mühle Sollnhofen (where we had also rented the canoe from). </div>
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La Baroudeusehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16594044478340097708noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5029626369858851148.post-36887811917487214592016-05-25T07:25:00.000+02:002016-05-25T07:25:43.179+02:00Hiking Daytrips: "Xanderklinge" in the Black Forest<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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As per suggestion of an outdoor blog (outdoormaedchen.de) we decided to stop over in Calw for this little hiking trip on our way towards Bavaria. We were spoiled with beautiful sunshine and the lushest green mother nature can offer. The Xanderklinge trek leads you through some glowing yellow rape fields and some apple trees into the forest. The Xanderklinge is a small creek with a little stream making its way through the jungle-like vegetation. It is one of the few places in Germany where not everything is neat and tidy but nature reigns. You make your way over rocks and fallen trees and climb up a few slippery rocks with a rope, all the while admiring the lush green that is so abundant around you. </div>
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I am not sure if the pictures do it justice, since I am still struggling with taking pictures in the forest, the light coming in from all angles is still challenging.</div>
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So I can only invite you to make a little weekend trip out there yourself and enjoy the beautiful scenery with your own eyes ;-)</div>
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For more detailed information on the tour, Martin will share the details on his blog (martin-outdoor.de).</div>
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La Baroudeusehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16594044478340097708noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5029626369858851148.post-56467149957119720582016-04-16T12:16:00.000+02:002016-04-16T12:55:11.225+02:00La Gomera<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
With the rainy weather outside I cannot help but dream myself back to sunny Teneriffa and La Gomera, sipping a zapparoccho or barraquito, a coffee drink infused with liqueur 43, in the sun...<br />
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After the first days in Teneriffa we took the ferry over to the neighboring island of La Gomera where we stayed at a small finca in a remote valley which we found on AirBnB. Our host, Lothar, a German expat renovated the typical Canary-style houses in the fall of 2015 so we were one of the first guests to enjoy a wonderful and calm homestay there. Since it is really secluded, shopping for groceries means a one-hour drive, one can order food at their little task where they prepare typical Spanish cuisine for you in the evening. However, the houses all come with a fully equipped kitchen so one could easily prepare dinner there aswell. A short walk up the cliffs was the Mirador de Abrante, offering a little café with the most scenic views on the sea and the Pico del Teide of Teneriffa in the distance. We really enjoyed our barraquitos there after our daily hikes and watched the clouds mount from the sea.<br />
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Upon Lothar's recommendation, we went for two full-day hikes around La Gomera which were both very beautiful. Especially the first one, around Ojila, offered an ever-changing vegetation from cedar forest to exposed rock to cloud forest.<br />
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On our way back to Teneriffa we spent a few hours on the beach, dipping our toes in the water and soaking in the sun and the holiday feeling.<br />
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La Baroudeusehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16594044478340097708noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5029626369858851148.post-7565972842175933912016-04-04T18:56:00.000+02:002016-04-04T18:56:07.889+02:00Sunny Beach and Cloudy Forest: All within a Day<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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On one of the last days we stayed at an AirBnB directly at the sea with the apartment being built in the rocks, making it a little cave down at the shore. We could hear the waves crashing into the rocks through the night. In the morning, this allowed us to watch the sunrise from the bed and have a dip in the ocean before breakfast on the front porch. At 8 am the sun was already burning down so that we had to apply sunscreen for breakfast.</div>
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Fooled by this apparent heat and good weather we made our way to the Anaga mountains in too light clothing and, just the tourists, without any rain jacket (at least in my case).</div>
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So, once we left the coast and were making our way up the winding mountain roads the weather turned quickly from blazing sunlight to mist and rain. And a good temperature drop of 10°C.</div>
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However, the beautiful cloud forest with droplets of mist and fog caught up in spiderwebs and the occasional ray of sunlight turning the drops into little sparkling crystals between the moss-covered branches made me forget the cold and the rain. </div>
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Although hiking boots would have been a more appropriate choice of footwear we still embarked on a small hiking trail in search of the "Matterhorn" of Teneriffa (which we eventually could spot in the distance). The trail was beautiful nevertheless, leading us through the dense cloud forest.</div>
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For lunch, we eventually crossed the mountain range, driving down seemingly endless serpentines to the little village of Benijo with the best fish restaurant at the top of a cliff, El Mirador. The clouds cleared up the closer we got to the sea and when we hit the shore, the sun was burning down on us again. After lunch, we took a little walk along the beach, with its rocks and black sand, one of the most beautiful ones of Teneriffa, unspoiled and, since getting down there involves a bit of a climb down a rocky trail, with no typical overweight Los Cristianos tourists insight.</div>
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We were really impressed by all the different vegetation and climate zones the island had to offer. Desert in the south, cloud forest in the west, almost tropical with lots of palms and flowers on the northern shore, volcanic in the center and even snow on the El Teide National Park. </div>
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And with all that, it only takes about two hours to circle the island by car. One can change from desert to cloud forest within half an hour. It was simply impressive. </div>
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Photos by me or by Martin. </div>
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La Baroudeusehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16594044478340097708noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5029626369858851148.post-69874707995339587172016-03-28T14:29:00.000+02:002016-03-28T14:29:12.946+02:00El Pico del Teide or Snow on the Canary Islands<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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So, one of the reasons we decided to book a flight to Teneriffa was the all-year-long summery weather there. Initially, we have been talking about going to Corsica to go hiking on the legendary GR-20 but were informed that in March parts of it might be closed because of heavy snowfall and mud slides on the higher parts. Hence, after a bit of searching around our choice fell on Teneriffa for its aforementioned year-round summer conditions and its highest mountain, El Teide, with its 3718 m of altitude offering some training ground for the upcoming hiking (and climbing for Martin) season in the Alps. </div>
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So far so good for our thoughts and considerations...however, when the clouds cleared off on our second day on the island and we got a glimpse on the peak from its northern face we were quite surprised to see it covered in snow. Heavy snow...</div>
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I mean, we were on the Canary Islands, usually associated with sunburnt people sipping sangria on its beaches in the south. Snow didn't really match the picture.</div>
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Well, we eventually found ourselves in the El Teide National Park at the starting point of the trek towards the summit where the snow gave a sharp contrast to the red volcanic stones and the blue skies. It was warm outside, the locals had brought up snow slides and pique nique gear and were spending their Sunday sliding down the snow covered hills in a t-shirt.</div>
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We started the trek at the designated point at around 2000 m of altitude and followed the footsteps in the snow on the presumed path. We quickly realized that the ascent was going to be hard work since most of the trail was covered in slushy snow. </div>
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Again, who would have thought of that much snow in March on the Canary Islands? We were laughing at our ignorance, especially since Martin has all kinds of gear at home for such conditions and here we were in our hiking boots and a t-shirt (although we had brought jackets and long sleeves in the backpack), looking at about 60 cm of slushy snow all the way to the summit. </div>
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In the beginning, where the layer of snow was not so thick, we could still see the landmarks on the ground indicating the right trek, but with every meter of altitude we gained, the snow layer got thicker, so we ended up choosing our own "path" towards the summit, only occasionally coming by signs that warned the hikers not to stray off the path.... :-D</div>
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Under the scorching sun it was quite a strenuous hike in that slushy snow, since every step forward also meant sliding back a little. Additionally, the altitude, slowly climbing up to about 3500 m, was also taking its toll. </div>
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However, the views down on the volcanic landscape, the sea and the surrounding islands were more than rewarding.</div>
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In the end, we didn't make it to the very top, since the ascent in the snow took us longer than we had assumed. We stopped at about 3500 m for a pique-nique, taking in the views and eventually decided to take the cable car down since a descent in those conditions of slushy snow with lots of rocks underneath and no clear path visible did not seem like a sensible thing to do. </div>
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Albeit the somewhat sub-optimal conditions it was a great hike and we had a really great day up there. Especially since we were almost the only people out there, we only ran into one other German couple. This, however, might be due to the fact that the path to the summit had been closed due to the snowy conditions as we learned a few days later, a fact we hadn't known at the time (and which, let's be honest, probably wouldn't have averted us from making our way up there...)</div>
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La Baroudeusehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16594044478340097708noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5029626369858851148.post-35882549484332156152016-03-28T13:32:00.000+02:002016-03-28T13:32:43.820+02:00Escaping the grey and rainy German winter for the Canary Islands<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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So there is something really special about hopping on an airplane in your winter jacket knowing that sunshine and warmer weather are awaiting you. Especially since the way to that very plane involves getting up at 3:30 a.m. to catch a train to the airport at 4:30 a.m. (and starting an argument with the lady who checked the tickets on the train). Luckily, I packed up the leftovers of this wonderful vanilla cake (http://cupofjo.com/2016/03/double-vanilla-butter-cake/) which calmed the nerves and eased the transition into holiday mode. </div>
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Upon arrival at Teneriffa airport, blazing sun was greeting us and a copious lunch at a local fish restaurant made us forget all the travel stress and set the right tune for the upcoming week. </div>
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On the northern side of the island, around Garachico where our first hotel was located, the vegetation was a lot greener than in the southern more desert-like parts. However, with the trade winds hitting the northern shore, it was not that warm yet with clouds coming up most afternoons making the evenings rather chilly. This might be the very reason why most tourist attractions and hotel parks are located on the southern shore where some artificial sandy beaches invite the usual 60+ Canary Island tourist to tan to a healthy red color and sip on a glass of Sangria on the touristy beach promenade in-between. Fortunately, when you stay away from Los Cristianos and Las Americas, Teneriffa has a lot more to offer, from a moon-like volcanic landscape at Parque Nacional El Teide to cloud forest in the Anaga mountains, to hiking trails through stunning gorges or amazing restaurants on lost beaches.</div>
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We stayed on a rural finca in the middle of a banana plantation with views on the ragged volcanic coast line. A lot of flowers were in bloom in the gardens, sun was shining and we could even spent a few hours at the pool. </div>
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La Baroudeusehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16594044478340097708noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5029626369858851148.post-84678528872273993312016-02-01T18:28:00.002+01:002016-02-01T18:28:43.310+01:00Ouddorp Part II: The perfect sunny Day at the Sea<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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So I guess these here explain themselves. A wonderful sunny winter day at the sea, a little wind but warm enough to spend hours wandering along the shore, wind and sun in the face. Perfection...</div>
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La Baroudeusehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16594044478340097708noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5029626369858851148.post-16738801917498780132016-01-22T19:54:00.002+01:002016-01-22T19:54:50.724+01:00Ouddorp Part I: Winding down at the sea<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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There is nothing quite like the sea, a wide sandy beach and some wind in your face to wind down after a few hectic weeks....the vast emptiness of the beach in late December, the clouds chasing the sky above us while wandering on the shore for hours on end, only stopping at one of the pier restaurants for a charming cup of coffee or hot chocolate. </div>
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The days flew by, we lost track of time in our routine of beach walks, sleeping and eating. The only constants were raisin bread rolls (rozijn bollen) for breakfast and a "krachtig bier vol von smaak" in the afternoon. Good times!</div>
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